Monthly Archives: December 2011

Christmas Eve Mass at St. Peter’s

As Snoopy would say, “It was a dark and stormy night . . . .” and Michael got us two of the scarce tickets to attend midnight Christmas Eve mass at St. Peter’s! Actually, the mass was at 10, but … Continue reading

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“White Paper Packages Tied up with Strings”

If there’s a better time of year for desserts than Christmas, I’d like to know what it is. Well, maybe my birthday in January, when I often get one of my favorite desserts—angel food cake with chocolate frosting (mmmmm!)—or maybe … Continue reading

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The Christmas Market at Piazza Navona

The day after Kate McKenna left for California, I went to see an orthopedic surgeon about my incessant leg pain. He sent me for X-rays (by a nun!) and delivered the rotten news that I have to have hip-replacement surgery—as … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 7—Last, the Best of All the Game: Mt. Etna

My sister, brother, and I used to chant a silly rhyme when one of us was the last at anything: First, the worst; second, the same; last, the best of all the game! And that’s how it was in Sicilia. … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 6—Syracuse

It was too dark to see outside our hotel when we arrived on Tuesday night, so we awoke to a lovely surprise: Taormina is high on a hill overlooking the Gulf of Catania, and our rooms had great views of the … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 5—Agrigento (Greek) and Piazza Armerina (Roman)

Tuesday we waved goodbye to Palermo and headed south to Agrigento, on the central coast, to feast our eyes on the astonishing Greek temples still standing there after some 2,600 years! Gives me shivers! On the sunny two-hour trip we … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 4—Western Sicilia

Monday we turtled out of Palermo (there’s no other speed there) to visit western Sicilia. On the way, we stopped at the Temple of Segesta—not to see the temple, which was built in the fifth century BC and is one … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 3—Monreale and Cefalù

Sunday was the first day of touring with Best of Sicily, and six of us traveled about six miles southwest of Palermo to Monreale to see the Arabo-Norman-Byzantine cathedral. According to Frommer, there’s an old local saying about the cathedral: … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 2—A (Long!) Walk in Palermo

On Saturday Kate and I took a walking tour that was recommended in Frommer’s Sicily book, which was an outstanding guide (if you go to Sicily, I recommend it). We had a couple of other guidebooks, but this one turned out to … Continue reading

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Sicilia: Day 1—Palermo

If Italy kicked its boot, the volcanic island of Sicilia would sail across the Mediterranean Sea into northern Africa. Sicilia is 20 minutes by ferry from mainland Italy and a mere 120 kilometers from Tunisia. Because of its location in … Continue reading

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