Fall Has Fell

After months of hot weather (I exaggerate), the weather in Rome changed dramatically yesterday. It’s about time and just in time for our daughters to visit: Alison and her boyfriend arrive Thursday for week, and Kate’s here for a week beginning November 4. Fall is my favorite season—apples, pumpkins, autumn leaves, and the crisp nip in the air, at least in Virginia. Fall won’t be exactly the same in Rome, where October temperatures typically average a toasty 72 degrees, few deciduous trees are to be found in Centro Storico, and the apples are decidedly mushy.

During August Rome didn’t see daily temperatures below the mid- to high 90s (not my favorite), and Michael’s fellow workers kept apologizing, telling him that the summer was unusually hot. They could be right, since weather.com says that the average temperature in Rome in August is 87 and in September, 81. But I say ha!—more like an average of 95 in August and 88 in September! The past couple of weeks have been beautiful—low to mid-80s; brilliant blue skies; cool, invigorating evenings.

Yesterday shocked everyone! The high temperature reached a mere 72, a chilly wind whipped through the streets and alleys, and rain spit sporadically throughout the afternoon. After our Italian lesson I walked a couple of miles home around 5 p.m. (wearing long black denim pants and a short-sleeved black cotton blouse), and by the time I hit Campo de’ Fiori, tourists in their Bermuda shorts and tank tops were shivering, and Italians were wearing jackets and had scarves twined around their necks. I wasn’t a bit cold (after all, I grew up on the chilly Oregon coast), but the lavasecco signora kept saying, “Freddo, freddo!” and wrapping her arms around herself when I picked up Michael’s suit. I’d left the dining room window open, and when I got home, the floor was covered with sycamore leaves (made me smile!).

Today Michael went to Piazza Farnese to get his hair cut at 10 a.m., and I went Caffé Farnese for a cappuccino and a cornetto (the Italian version of a croissant). The temperature was about 65, but you would have thought it was a snowy day in January! People were huddled in coats, sweaters, and sweatshirts. One person in a sweatshirt had her hood pulled up, a scarf wrapped around her face, her hands buried in the pockets of her jeans, and her shoulders hunched up against the “cold.” Lots of people swarmed Caffé Farnese as usual on Saturday morning, but they all refused to sit in the shade. Freddo, freddo!

Now I know why the displays in the stores have changed. In the place of skimpy tops and blouses for women, we now see sweaters, scarves, and caps. When Michael was in Rome in mid-December 2010, it snowed one day. The Romans were thrilled, because the average temperature in December is 55, and snow is rare. I long to see Rome in the snow, although I bet the sampietrini are slippery!

Until then I’ll celebrate every second of fall! I’m so happy it’s here!


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5 Responses to Fall Has Fell

  1. Charlie Gehringer says:

    Sue: your hamberger sounded very good. You know that this is making it very difficult for me to loose some weight with the food descriptions (pulling your leg).

    Glad to hear that you are having a change in the weather nad it has cooled down a little for you.

    Give the girls a big hug from Trudy and I when they are over there with you. It was so nice spending some time with them at the wedding. Al’s boyfriend really fit in well with our crazy group, a very nice guy

    Take care of yourselves. We reallyh enjoyh youir blogs. Love Charlie.

  2. skdyer7 says:

    My hamburger was the BEST! Will give the girls hugs. I’m so glad they could attend Ash’s wedding. Love to you both, Sue

  3. Meredith Prock says:

    Like you, I LOVE fall; I’m in heaven when the skies are blue, the sun is shining and the temp is 60-65. I was chuckling to myself just last week about how we in Hawaii cracked out the “winter” clothes and bundled up if the temps dropped below 70! This week feels more like a push toward winter, 47 overnight and no more than mid-50s in the foreseeable future, but I continue to resist turning on the heater. I am SO glad I moved to the beautiful Pacific Northwest!

    • skdyer7 says:

      Wimp! At least you love fall, though. But who couldn’t!
      I’m so glad you’re happy in your home away from home. Hawaii was usually too hot for me, although I remember coming to your house for dinner one night and a cool, steady rain was falling. It was wonderful!

  4. Nancy Olden says:

    Sue – a beautiful blog evoking the sights, smells, tastes and personality of Roma. Thank you for sharing your wonderful experiences. You have a new fan. xx

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